Link = NOTE - You DO NOT WANT a 'dimpled' bucking bar. BUCKING BAR - See link for this $20 bucking bar from VintageTrailer. at least when I posted those prices a year ago. AIR HAMMER ANVIL SIZE - Here's a link to the proper tool to set brazier head riverts, using an air tool, for $10 to $13. HEAD SHAPE - IMHO for tin boat use, you only want 'brazier' head rivets. As to the size, perhaps getting up into the 1/4" diameter makes the river too strong for the alloy around it? But I bet it is also a cost factor and I wouldn't bother using 1/4" one myself. the rivets here are the intended 'sacrificial' piece, if/when something goes and needs to be replaced. MATERIAL - You want the 1100F alloy, to be 'softer' than the tin alloy, typically 5052 as used on the hull. SIZE - Buying in bulk from Jay-Cee rivets, rivets on-line, has a large inventory for great prices! I have never heard of anyone running into supply issues with 3/16" rivets. Thanks in advance for any assistance or insight you can give!Ĭlick to expand. I see a great post by Johnny (THANKS!) showing how to make a custom bucking block.īut are there any good sources of dimpled bucking blocks online for a reasonable price? Do these 4 sizes include tips that match the heads of both M5 and 1/4" rivets? Any source of single bits, or must I buy the set? BUCKING BLOCKS I've searched here and found a number of posts showing the Northern Tool rivet anvils for an air gun. Are these the ones I should use to match? AIR HAMMER ANVIL SIZE I also see a few "brazier" rivets, which look more like the factory rivets. When you buck them, do they flatten out a bit, like the factory rivets? I see a lot of "round" head rivets that look strong. Anything specific I should be looking for? HEAD SHAPE Some is stronger, some is soft, some resists corrosion, and so on. I know when working on boats, the type of aluminum is important. Is there any specific type of aluminum needed for boats? All of them just say "Aluminum". (Because they are more common, maybe?) Are 1/4" rivets stronger, as it would seem, yet still not prone to leaking? Are there any negatives to going up a size? MATERIAL I see quite a number of 1/4" solid rivets, and the price is much more reasonable than 3/16. Might need a 5 MM drill bit, but no big deal, really.īut that brings up a question. WHY? Either way, it looks like M5 is about the right size for my 3/16" holes. For some reason, when I look up the 3/16", the price more than doubles. When I go online, 3/16" solid rivets are hard to find. Here are some questions that maybe you fellow members can help me with. But when I look online for materials, it gets dizzying! I've re-bucked many rivets in the past using a sledge and a hammer, so making the change seems easy to do. This has worked very well and I've never a failure with the bolts.īut the more of this work I do, the more I want to move over to solid aluminum rivets. (But NOT so good without the washers, in my opinion) But when I want something to really be strong, I always use stainless steel bolts with nylock nuts. With the backing washers, they work pretty well. I've refurbished a number of tin boats, and in the past I've used a lot of 3/16" pop rivets.
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